l’express restaurant gets a facelift

L’Express, a Montreal bistro specializing in French comfort food, looks lovely after its facelift this fall.
For weeks, the 20+ year old restaurant front was hidden by scaffolding - which has since given way to smooth walls, fresh cream-colored paint around the narrow entry, and updated windows along the street.
Ahh, L’Express, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways:
1. Your mirrored and laquered interior reminds me of Paris bistros at the turn of the last century.
2. Your servers, dressed in black and white, continue the mirage.
3. The fact that they know the wine list by heart only endears me more.
4. And your food? the delicate frites…my haricots verts with a lovely balsamic reduction… steak and croque monsieur, BOTH on the menu…the truffes maison…and I’m still thinking about the pot of cornichons set out with mustard…
Your new face only makes me love you more.
If you go: L’Express. Traditional French bistro. 3927 St Denis, Montreal. Reservations advised, 514 845-5333.

